Convert 7g Sports GT - to a 5 stud wheel pattern on my project car.
Baby blue pearl and another blue pearl in pearl white will look good with 4g63t motor :)
Images of the front suspension and rear suspension as reference.
Front suspension
Rear suspension
This is WIP This is a rough guide, there will be a few mistakes.
This section is about collecting the parts, braking them down for inspection, and rebuilding them.
:: Post Install ::
Some of the pictures may not be true, they do follow the same princples.
Don't blame me for anything that goes wrong. Not sure about anything
ask for help or go see someone to get another opinion.
Time. so far about about 1 week off and on, juggling work, home life kids etc.
Tools.
Special tools. Spring compression tool and a pully puller.
A good range. 32mm socket is needed, power bar.
I have access to a very large workshop.
My moto is "Do it right first time"
Get your parts needed for the conversion, I'm using second hand parts.
They need to be throughly checked before I install them.
Hubs
Disc brake
Brakes, front + rear complete.
Wheels. - My old 8g factory 16" alloy wheels, they are in mint con.
I have chosen 8 gen wreacked legnum as my main source of parts.
Strip everything down unit you have hubs, brake calipers, disc brake and backplate.
The following image has the parts shown and also the order of disassembly, by following the numbers.
Inspection wheel bearing rotation start torque check (6).
(1) Install the special tool (Preload socket) to the front hub assembly and
tighten the nut to the specified torque 196 - 255 Nm.
(2) Use the special tool to measure the wheel bearing starting torque.
196 - 255 Nm
Limit: 1.0 Nm or less
(3) The wheel bearing starting torque should be within the
limit value range, and there should be no engagement
or feeling of roughness.
Wheel bearing axial play check(6).
(1) Install the special tool (dial guage) to the front hub assembly and
tighten the nut to the specified torque 196 - 255 Nm.
(2) Measure the play in the hub axial direction.
Limit: 0.05 mm
(3) If the limit value of hub axial play cannot be obtained,
replace the front hub assembly.
Note
Run out check will not need to be done, As you have done it by following the above.
Disk Brakes(3).
Look for wraping, fractures and any other defects.
If ok you could machine them.
But first check.
Thickness Check(3).
1. Using a micrometer, measure disc thickness at eight
positions, approximately 45_ apart and 10 mm in from
the outer edge of the disc.
Brake disc thickness
Standard value: 24.0 mm <Front>, 10.0 mm <Rear>
Limit: 22.4 mm <Front>, 8.4 mm <Rear>
Thickness variation (at least 8 positions)
The difference between any thickness measurements
should not be more than 0.015 mm.
2. If the disc is beyond the limits for thickness, remove it
and install a new one. If thickness variation exceeds the
specification, replace the brake disc.
Rear brake lining thickness check.
1. Remove the brake drum.
2. Measure the wear of the brake lining at the place worn
the most.
Standard value: 4.4 mm
Limit: 1.0 mm
Replace the shoe and lining assembly if brake lining
thickness is less than the limit or if it is not worn evenly.
Caution.
1. Whenever the shoe and lining assembly is
replaced, replace both R.H. and L.H. assemblies
as a set to prevent car from pulling to one side
when braking.
2. If there is a significant difference in the thickness
of the shoe and lining assemblies on the left and
right sides, check the sliding condition of the
piston.
3. Measure the inside diameter of the brake disc in two
places or more.
Standard value: 168.0 mm
Limit: 169.0 mm
4. If the inside of the brake disc has worn down to the
limit value or more, or if it is excessively worn on one
side, replace the brake disc.
Brake calipers(2).
Your rear caliper will look like this.
The front will be a bigger caliper with 2 pistons (8) and also (6)(7)and (9).
The disassembly order is from (1) -(14).
1. Guide pin - Put a straight edge along the shaft and rotate it up aganist a light
2. Lock pin - to see how true the shafts are. Look for wear. Replace if need to.
3. Bushing
4. Caliper support (pad, clip, shim)
5. Boot
6. Boot ring
7. Piston boot
8. Piston - DONOT RUB THE SPECIAL GREASE OFF, OR OFF THE BOOT.
9. Piston seal
10. Caliper body
11. Pad and wear indicator assembly
12. Pad assembly - Bendix Ultra's
13. Outer shim (may have rubber on it)
14. Clip
Piston Boot/Piston Removal
Protect caliper body with cloth. Blow compressed air
through the brake hose/hole to remove piston and boot.
Caution
Blow compressed air gently.
Pull the boot out with your fingers, use a piece of cloth if you have to for grip.
Caution
Do not use a screw driver or other tool to prevent damage
to inner cylinder.
Then pull the boot ring out.
Clean piston surface and inner cylinder with
alcohol or specified brake fluid (Dot 3 or Dot4).
Check cylinder for wear, damage or rust.
Check piston surface for wear, damage and rust.
Check caliper body or sleeve for wear.
Check Pads - New pads here.
Replace any damaged parts.
Put the caliper back together in the reverse order, complete with all bolts.
Using specified grease.
You could also paint the caliper(4),(10)(2) by using ceramic paint if you choose to.
You can get this from Repco at $34 for a pack. It only comes in red or yellow.
Piston, piston boot, then the boot ring.
Push the piston(s) all the way home.
Make sure you grease all metal on metal parts. Guide and lock pin shafts. (check for wear, damage, rust)
Replace. Grease the shafts.
Do not make a mess with the grease :p
Leave the pads out for now, as it only takes a few secs to put them in.
Reassemble, the caliper should move freely under its own weight in both directions.
Once all four brake calipers are done. Put them aside with your hubs.
Rear Drum.
1. Rear brake caliper
2. Rear brake disc
3. Shoe to anchor spring
4. Adjusting screw spring
5. Adjuster
6. Strut
7. Strut return spring
8. Shoe hold down cup
9. Shoe hold down spring
10. Shoe hold down pin
11. Shoe and lining assembly
12. Clip
13. Parking brake cable
14. Rear hub assembly
15 Backing plate
Quite easy to put back together, follow the numbers in this order.
(15),(11),The metal bracket that looks like a house,(6) + (7), (3), (5), (4), (10) , (9) and (8).
To test it.
You can pull/push on the hand brake armature,
and the shoe should move out, then back in.
It needs to be snappy, grease the following places only needs a very small amount.
Note
Do not get it on the outside of the shoe.
You should be left with two R type clips, for the hand brake cable, Put them aside.
You will need these when we are ready to install.
Will also need to have access to the adjuster at the brake lever, inside the car at the console.
(See hand brake section for information)
Two front backplates and two small bolts.
I have chosen to paint mine. Customize the look you are after. I am painting this car pearl white with some blue pearls.
Almost there. Some parts ready for the install.
Well I'm off to machine my disc's :)
Need to check the 7g brake lines to fit the 8g calipers. Replace if not correct fitting.
Make sure they are upto your W.O.F (M.O.T) standards.
What you have being waiting for
Starting at the rear. Use the rear axle image above as your guide.
Tools needed:
Jack
2 axle stands
Wheel brace
Pilers
8mm spanner
14mm spanner or socket
17mm spanner or socket
32mm spanner or socket
Rachet
Power bar
Gear puller tool
Rubber mallet
1. Crack your your wheel nuts.
2. Jack your car off the ground.
3. Place your axle stands under the car so the are level.
4. Lower the car onto the stands, But keep the jack there and block your front wheels to stop it from moving.
5. Remove the wheels, you can place them under the car for extra safety, but out of your work area.
6. Remove the the wheel speed sensor (1)
7. Pull the Pin out of the axle nut (N)
8. Undo the axle nut (4)
9. Undo and remove the caliper assembly (2) You can tie it back with wire, to stop brake fluid going every were.
10. Remove the brake disc (3)
11. Remove the nut (5) from the knuckle ball joint - only the nut.
12. Remove the axle from the hub, by using the gear puller. You might need to spray some crc into the
axle as it could be rusted up. If all goes well you should have it looking like this.
13. Use the 17mm socket on your power bar to remove the 4 bolts holding the hub (6) to the knuckle.
14. Undo the clip (12) for the hand brake, and unhook it from the drum assembly.
You have now removed everything.
Clean your mess up and disguard unused parts.
Reassemble in the reverse order using your new parts.
Notes
May have to use the rubber mallet to get the hub back onto the axle shaft.
Evenly tap it on to the shaft.
Make sure you set your hand brake up to your disc. See my other guides on brake set up for more information.
You can transfer the brake cable to the new caliper with minumal lose of brake fluid buy holding it up.
If the position of the split pin holes does not match, tighten the nut up to 255 Nm in maximum.
Make sure you have all bolts and nuts in and are at the correct tightness.
Repeat on the other rear side.
Then move to the front and repeat the same process, but ignoring the drum brake part.
Parking brake lever stroke check and adjustment.
1. Pull the parking brake lever with a force of approx. 196N and count the number of notches.
Standard value: 3 - 5 notches (Vehicles with drum in disc brake)
2. If the parking brake lever stroke is not the standard value, adjust as described below.
Remove the floor console cup holder, loosen the adjusting
nut as far as the end of the cable rod to release the
cable, and then adjust by the following procedure:
(Vehicles with drum-in-disc brake)
(1) Remove the adjustment hole plug, and then use a flat-tip ( - ) screwdriver to turn
the adjuster in the direction of down (the direction which expands the shoe)
so that the disc will not rotate.
Return the adjuster five notches in the opposite direction.
(3) Turn the adjusting nut to adjust the parking brake lever stroke to the standard value.
After adjusting, check that there is no space between the adjusting nut and the parking brake lever.
Caution
If the parking brake lever stroke is below the standard value and the braking is too firm,
the rear brakes may drag.
(4) After adjusting the parking brake lever stroke, jack up the rear of the vehicle.
Release the parking brake and turn the rear wheels to check that the rear brakes
are not dragging.
Parking brake switch check.
1. Remove the floor console.
2. Check for continuity between the parking brake switch terminal and the switch mounting bolt.
When parking brake lever is pulled - Continuity
When parking brake lever is released - No continuity
Lining running in
Carry out running-in by the following procedure when replacing the parking brake linings
or the rear brake disc rotors, or when brake performance is insufficient.
Caution
Carry out running-in in a place with good visibility, and pay careful attention to safety.
1. Adjust the parking brake stroke to the specified value.
Standard value [Operation force: Approx. 196 N]
2. Hook a spring balance onto the centre of the parking brake lever grip and pull it with
a force of 98 - 147 N in a direction perpendicular to the handle.
3. Drive the vehicle at a constant speed of 35 - 50 km/h for 100 metres.
4. Release the parking brake and let the brakes cool for 5 - 10 minutes.
5. Repeat the procedure in steps 2. to 4. 4 - 5 times.
Bleeding
Caution
Use the specified brake fluid. Avoid using a mixture of the specified brake fluid and other fluid.
Specified brake fluid: DOT3 or DOT4
Master cylinder bleeding
The master cylinder used has no check valve, so if bleeding is carried out by the following procedure,
bleeding of air from the brake pipeline will become easier.
(When brake fluid is not contained in the master cylinder.)
(1) Fill the reserve tank with brake fluid.
(2) Keep the brake pedal depressed.
(3) Have another person cover the master cylinder outlet with a finger.
(4) With the outlet still closed, release the brake pedal.
(5) Repeat steps (2) - (4) three or four times to fill the inside of the master cylinder with brake fluid.
Brake pipe line bleeding
Bleed the air in the sequence shown in the figure.
Disk brake pad check and replacement
Note
The left side outer brake pad has a wear indicator.
The wear indicator contacts the brake disc when the brake pad thickness becomes 2 mm
and emit a squealing sound to warn the driver.
1. Check brake pad thickness through caliper body check port.
Standard value: 10 mm
Limit: 2.0 mm
Caution
1. When the limit is exceeded, replace the pads at both sides, and also the brake pads for the wheels
on the opposite side at the same time.
2. If there is a significant difference in the thickness of the pads on the left and right sides, check the
sliding condition of the piston and guide pin.
2. Remove the guide pin. Lift caliper assembly and retain with wires.
Caution
Do not wipe off the special grease that is on the guide pin or allow it to contaminate the guide pin.
3. Remove the following parts from caliper support(4).
(11) Pad and wear indicator assembly <L>, and pad assembly <R>
(12) Pad assembly
(13) Outer shim
(14) Pad liner
4. In order to measure the brake drag force after pad installation, measure the rotary-sliding resistance of the
hub with the pads removed.
5. Install the pads and the caliper assembly, and then check the brake drag force.
Shocks absorbers
The shock absorbers have nothing to do with mod. While I am here I thought I might as well do it.
I do not have a spring compression clamp. So I will do this when I get the pully puller, and compression clamp.
Shock removal front
1. Undo Shock absorber mounting nuts(2) from inside the bonnet.
2. Undo the Damper fork and shock absorber connection(4).
Shock removal rear
1. You might have to undo your boot lining to get to the shock absorber mounting nuts.
2. Pull the Cap(1) off.
3. Undo Shock absorber mounting nuts(2) from inside the boot.
4. Undo Bolt(3).
Disassembly Shock assembly and spring.
1. Use the special tools to compress the coil spring.
Caution
(1) Install the special tools evenly, and so that the maximum lengh will be attained within the
installation range.
(2) Do not use an impact wrench to tighten the special tool bolt.
(3) When holding the piston rod, remove the self locking nut.
(4)Do not use an impact wrench.
Reassembly
In the reverse order :lol:
Notes:
Wheel alignment - last :P
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